Arboriculture is the specialized study and care of individual trees, shrubs, and woody plants. While forestry focuses on managing entire wooded areas for resources, arboriculture is essentially “healthcare for trees” in our urban and residential landscapes. As arborists, we combine biological science with physical skill to ensure that the trees in your yard stay healthy and safe. This includes everything from diagnosing diseases and pests to performing technical climbing and pruning.
An arborist report is a formal document that assesses the health, safety, and condition of your trees. When you receive one, start by looking for the “Tree Inventory,” which lists the species and size of the tree. The most important sections are the “Observations” and “Recommendations.” Observations describe what the arborist saw, such as fungal growth or structural cracks. The recommendations will tell you exactly what needs to happen next, whether it is a “Crown Reduction” to shorten heavy limbs or “Soil Amendment” to fix a nutrient deficiency.
A certified arborist has undergone extensive training and testing to understand tree biology and safety standards. While a general landscaper is great for lawn care, they may not recognize a “Hazard Tree” or know how to prune a species without causing long term damage. Hiring a certified professional ensures that your trees are treated with industry standard techniques, reducing the risk of property damage or tree death caused by improper cutting.
Trees often give us clues that something is wrong before it becomes a crisis. You should walk around your property once a month and look for these common symptoms:
Deadwood: Large branches that have no leaves or bark falling off are a safety risk.
Cankers: Sunken or oozing areas on the trunk can indicate a bacterial or fungal infection.
Mushroom Growth: Fungi growing at the base of the tree often signal internal root rot.
Heaving Soil: If the ground is lifting on one side of a leaning tree, the roots may be failing.
Some trees naturally grow at an angle to reach for sunlight, which is usually not a concern. However, if a tree develops a new lean suddenly or after a major storm, it is a high priority issue. Check the ground around the base; if you see cracked soil or roots popping up, the tree is no longer stable. If the tree has a steady, old lean and the trunk curves back toward the sky, it has likely corrected itself over time and is generally safe.
A tree is typically considered a hazard if it has a structural defect and a “target” it could hit, like your house or a sidewalk. We look for deep vertical cracks in the trunk or “included bark,” which is where two stems grow so close together they eventually push each other apart. If more than 30% of the tree is dead or hollow, removal is often the safest option. We always try to save trees through cabling or pruning first, but we prioritize the safety of your family and property.
The “dormant season,” which is late winter or very early spring, is the best time for most pruning. During this window, the tree is asleep, so the cuts don’t trigger unnecessary stress or attract pests like beetles. However, if a branch is dead or hanging precariously after a storm, you should call us immediately regardless of the season. Removing hazardous limbs is always an urgent priority to prevent accidents.
Pruning is a surgical process meant to help the tree, while topping is a harmful practice that involves cutting off the top of the main trunk. Topping causes the tree to grow “water sprouts,” which are weak, vertical shoots that break easily in the wind. Instead of topping, we use “Crown Reduction.” This involves cutting limbs back to a lateral branch that is large enough to take over the lead, maintaining the tree’s health while managing its size.
A professional checkup every two to three years is ideal for most mature trees. During these visits, we check for slow moving issues like pests or soil compaction. If you have recently completed a construction project near your trees, you should have them checked sooner. Construction equipment can crush roots or change the water flow in the soil, which might not show symptoms in the leaves for a year or two.
In a natural forest, trees get nutrients from falling leaves that rot into the soil. In our yards, we rake leaves away, which deprives the tree of its natural food. Deep root fertilization involves injecting a specialized liquid nutrient mix directly into the root zone about 8 to 12 inches deep. If your tree’s leaves are smaller than usual or look yellowish (a condition called chlorosis), a nutrient boost can help it regain its strength.
Many storm damaged trees can be saved if the main trunk is still intact. We often use “Structural Pruning” to clean up jagged breaks and “Cabling” to support limbs that have been weakened but not fully detached. If the tree has lost more than half of its canopy or if the main trunk is split down the middle, the structure is likely too compromised to remain safe in the long term.
The general rule is that the person whose land contains the base of the trunk owns the tree. If the trunk sits right on the line, it is usually considered shared property. You have the right to prune branches that hang over your yard, but you must follow “ANSI A300” standards, which means you cannot prune so much that you kill or destabilize the tree. It is always best to share the arborist report with your neighbor so you can make a plan together.
